A while a go, a couple of Japanese brands were sued by Levi's. At the time it wasn't clear how it would affect the market - would the brands in question go bankrupt, would others have to change their designs etc.
We know now that it wasn't as big of a deal as it might have seen at first.
The only brands directly affected by the lawsuit are Ironheart, Sugarcane, The Flat Head and Australian Imperial.
Sugarcane just removed the infringing details, while Ironheart and The Flat Head chose to come up with new designs.
This was Ironheart's first new version:
and this is the second and final(?):
I think it will be possibly to get them with blank backpockets, but it's also very easy to just take a seam ripper to them if you don't like the new arcuate.
The same, thick leather patch, but only with one motorcycle this time.
Personally I'm kind of indifferent to the new Ironhearts, don't really like or dislike them, but they're way better than the new Flat Heads.. I hope these are just early prototypes.
The arcuate is horrible in my opinion and I just don't understand why they changed the shape of the backpockets as well? Horrible x 2.
They've also made a version with backpockets of the regular shape too, though, that's probably what will be sold in the US and Europe. I'm hoping this is just a(very limited!! :) special version, time will tell.
The other brands remain the same though. In my opinion this lawsuit was way hyped. Apparently Levi's has sued over a 100 different brands since the 1990's, or something along those lines, I don't remember year and number exactly right now. They first time they sued over trademark infringement was in the 1930's.
You can tell that most Japanese brands still remain 'at large' by just looking at this picture;
It's Fullcount's yearly limited edition World War II-model.
You can expect the jeans sold outside of Japan to come without the arcuates and red tab though. Some brands will just remove these details from their Japanese product, while others like Samurai and Skull will come up with export models. But, again, things will remain the same in Japan.
And to end this post; the window display at Self Edge. The doll is bleeding red tabs..
Pictures from 3sixteen.com
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Sunday, March 04, 2007
Samurai interview
So, I've conducted an interview with one of the best jeansmakers in the world and my favourite brand, SAMURAI!
It has been delayed a lot, because I had a hard time to find someone who could translate it back and forth between English and Japanese, but thanks to Hajime and Naoto it's now finally finished! Big thanks to you guys!
Click 'Read More' to read the interview. It comes in an English and a Japanese variety!
The Happy New Years card I received from Samurai!
The Samurai boss
Hi Toshiko, thank you for taking your time to answer my questions! Could you
give us an introduction of yourself and Samurai Jeans? How big is your
company, how many employees? Is it a family business?
- Samurai Jeans was established in Osaka Japan in 1998, when was the
heyday of vintage replica jeans - Evisu, Studio D'Artisan, Denime and
Warehouse for instance, but Nogami - the CEO of Samurai Jeans, wasn't
quite satisfied with all these jeans, so he came up with the idea -
we're going to make the best jeans that make us satisfied! That's how
Samurai Jeans started. Since then, our policy has not been changed to
this day.
Our first jeans was S0510XX lot#0 in 1998 and we made only 100 pairs.
We stamped the serial number "lot#0" on the leather patches, then the
number became lot#1 for the next model in the same year, and lot#2 in
1999 and so on. This means that the jeans we produce in this year
(2007) carry lot#10, and the next year will be our 10th anniversary.
Toshiko, how come you got into the jeans business? It is a bit unusual for a woman to work with or be passionate about jeans and its heritage, at least that's my experience.
- Initially I was interested in vintage replica jeans, then I was
smitten by Samurai Jeans' attitude towards the jeans they produce.
Samurai is one of the most popular Japanese brands, why do you think that is? What differentiates you from other brands?
- That's a very difficult question! (laugh). First and foremost, I
think the quality of denim. We've been studying and researching about
denim again and again, so we wouldn't sell our jeans public unless
we're finally satisfied with the final product. Secondly, our concept
- each model has its own unique character and we never forget to add
sense of humour with it - the design of our leather patches, for
example. I think that's why our customers like our jeans.
What is the feeling that you want to convey to the person who wears Samurai jeans?
- Well, the spirit of challenging - not compromise, finding out what
it's the truth in any aspects. It sounds as though ancient samurais'
spirits!
Your brand name is Samurai, is the Bushido code in anyway implemented in the way you design your jeans?
-The denim fabric, the way we sew, the accessories - whole Samurai Jeans.
How many pairs of jeans do you sell/make per year?
- I'm afraid I cannot tell how many exactly - not a lot, I think.
Do you want to keep your brand small, or are you trying to expand outside of Japan? Are we going to see Samurai jeans being sold outside of Japan and the US, like in Sweden? If yes, when can we expect this?
- We're very glad to hear that our jeans are becoming very popular
outside Japan - in the USA and Sweden for instance, however we are
not planning to expand our business worldwide at the moment. It would
be inevitable that the bigger we become globally, the more we become
commercialised. This mean, I think, that it would be difficult to
keep the good relationship between our customers and us and that'd be
against our policy. We, however, would like to rethink about
expanding our business worldwide when the right time has come, though.
Could you estimate how many jeans you have sold to people outside of Asia last year? How much of your sales come from people from America and Europe?
- We've had a lot of inquiries not only from the US but from Europe as
well. I don't know how many countries! (laugh)
Can you tell us a little about what new jeans you will release in 2007? New cuts or denim, a wrangler model perhaps? Will you release a 10 year anniversary model?
- We're going to release some new modes this year, including Wrangler
model.
The slubby, loosely woven denim is almost a signature for Samurai. Are you going to make jeans with denim that is more tightly woven? I would very much like to see a pair of Samurais with denim like Studio D'Artisan or Denime, do you think that there is any chance of this happening?
- We don't stick to loose-weaving methods and slubby texture, but also
search for other potentials and new ideas in the future. Please look
forward to it!
Will you make other models than the S5000 in black denim that will fade in the same way as the S5000BK?
- Yes, we will.
What is happening to the S5000VX and S3000VX? Will they be discontinued or will you continue producing these models?
- Yes, we are still producing both models!
Will you start making the S7000VX again, since it was the most popular model among the people who entered the S5000BK wallet lottery?
- Yes, we're planning to release them again.
"Which is your favourite Samurai model?"
"Which old model do you want to see brought back?"
The stitching around the front pockets broke after only one month on both my S0505XX and my S0500XX, how come? Did you intentionally use a weaker underthread?
- We decide to use 100% cotton yarn so as to reproduce vintage-texured
jeans. Obviously cotton yarn is not as durable as nylon or core-yarn.
How do you feel about this lawsuit from Levi's? Can you give us a comment about it and maybe tell us how Samurai will be affected?
- We would want to pretend that the lawsuit by Levi's hasn't affected
us in any way, but we are going to take this issue as a good opportunity
to think about us and our future.
Thank you very much for taking your time to answer my questions! I very much appreciate it and I hope that others will, too!
That's it guys! Hope you liked it.
Japanese version.
★質問 ①
影響がなかったといえば嘘になりますが、これを機会に当社として今後の方向性についてじっくりと検討することができたと思っています。
以上★★★
It has been delayed a lot, because I had a hard time to find someone who could translate it back and forth between English and Japanese, but thanks to Hajime and Naoto it's now finally finished! Big thanks to you guys!
Click 'Read More' to read the interview. It comes in an English and a Japanese variety!
The Happy New Years card I received from Samurai!
The Samurai boss
Hi Toshiko, thank you for taking your time to answer my questions! Could you
give us an introduction of yourself and Samurai Jeans? How big is your
company, how many employees? Is it a family business?
- Samurai Jeans was established in Osaka Japan in 1998, when was the
heyday of vintage replica jeans - Evisu, Studio D'Artisan, Denime and
Warehouse for instance, but Nogami - the CEO of Samurai Jeans, wasn't
quite satisfied with all these jeans, so he came up with the idea -
we're going to make the best jeans that make us satisfied! That's how
Samurai Jeans started. Since then, our policy has not been changed to
this day.
Our first jeans was S0510XX lot#0 in 1998 and we made only 100 pairs.
We stamped the serial number "lot#0" on the leather patches, then the
number became lot#1 for the next model in the same year, and lot#2 in
1999 and so on. This means that the jeans we produce in this year
(2007) carry lot#10, and the next year will be our 10th anniversary.
Toshiko, how come you got into the jeans business? It is a bit unusual for a woman to work with or be passionate about jeans and its heritage, at least that's my experience.
- Initially I was interested in vintage replica jeans, then I was
smitten by Samurai Jeans' attitude towards the jeans they produce.
Samurai is one of the most popular Japanese brands, why do you think that is? What differentiates you from other brands?
- That's a very difficult question! (laugh). First and foremost, I
think the quality of denim. We've been studying and researching about
denim again and again, so we wouldn't sell our jeans public unless
we're finally satisfied with the final product. Secondly, our concept
- each model has its own unique character and we never forget to add
sense of humour with it - the design of our leather patches, for
example. I think that's why our customers like our jeans.
What is the feeling that you want to convey to the person who wears Samurai jeans?
- Well, the spirit of challenging - not compromise, finding out what
it's the truth in any aspects. It sounds as though ancient samurais'
spirits!
Your brand name is Samurai, is the Bushido code in anyway implemented in the way you design your jeans?
-The denim fabric, the way we sew, the accessories - whole Samurai Jeans.
How many pairs of jeans do you sell/make per year?
- I'm afraid I cannot tell how many exactly - not a lot, I think.
Do you want to keep your brand small, or are you trying to expand outside of Japan? Are we going to see Samurai jeans being sold outside of Japan and the US, like in Sweden? If yes, when can we expect this?
- We're very glad to hear that our jeans are becoming very popular
outside Japan - in the USA and Sweden for instance, however we are
not planning to expand our business worldwide at the moment. It would
be inevitable that the bigger we become globally, the more we become
commercialised. This mean, I think, that it would be difficult to
keep the good relationship between our customers and us and that'd be
against our policy. We, however, would like to rethink about
expanding our business worldwide when the right time has come, though.
Could you estimate how many jeans you have sold to people outside of Asia last year? How much of your sales come from people from America and Europe?
- We've had a lot of inquiries not only from the US but from Europe as
well. I don't know how many countries! (laugh)
Can you tell us a little about what new jeans you will release in 2007? New cuts or denim, a wrangler model perhaps? Will you release a 10 year anniversary model?
- We're going to release some new modes this year, including Wrangler
model.
The slubby, loosely woven denim is almost a signature for Samurai. Are you going to make jeans with denim that is more tightly woven? I would very much like to see a pair of Samurais with denim like Studio D'Artisan or Denime, do you think that there is any chance of this happening?
- We don't stick to loose-weaving methods and slubby texture, but also
search for other potentials and new ideas in the future. Please look
forward to it!
Will you make other models than the S5000 in black denim that will fade in the same way as the S5000BK?
- Yes, we will.
What is happening to the S5000VX and S3000VX? Will they be discontinued or will you continue producing these models?
- Yes, we are still producing both models!
Will you start making the S7000VX again, since it was the most popular model among the people who entered the S5000BK wallet lottery?
- Yes, we're planning to release them again.
"Which is your favourite Samurai model?"
"Which old model do you want to see brought back?"
The stitching around the front pockets broke after only one month on both my S0505XX and my S0500XX, how come? Did you intentionally use a weaker underthread?
- We decide to use 100% cotton yarn so as to reproduce vintage-texured
jeans. Obviously cotton yarn is not as durable as nylon or core-yarn.
How do you feel about this lawsuit from Levi's? Can you give us a comment about it and maybe tell us how Samurai will be affected?
- We would want to pretend that the lawsuit by Levi's hasn't affected
us in any way, but we are going to take this issue as a good opportunity
to think about us and our future.
Thank you very much for taking your time to answer my questions! I very much appreciate it and I hope that others will, too!
That's it guys! Hope you liked it.
Japanese version.
★質問 ①
本日はお忙しい中どうもありがとうございます!まず最初に読者の方々へご自身と
サムライジーンズについてご紹介いただけますでしょうか?
サムライジーンズについてご紹介いただけますでしょうか?
★返事
*********
1998年に大阪発デニムブランドとしてサムライジーンズは誕生しました。
当時日本はレプリカブームで、エビィスやダルチ、ドゥニーム、ウエアハウスな
どの全盛期でした。
しかし代表の野上にとってはどのデニムにも納得いかないものがあり、
作り手の側からだけではなく穿き手の気持ちをもっと取り入れた新しいデニムを創りたい、という
熱い思いからスタートし、真剣に自分たちが納得できる良いものだけを創る、という信念で突き進んできました。
初めて製作したのは、S0510XX lot#0 1998年初代モデル。これは当初100本のみの製作です。
革パッチにlot#0を付したのは、最初の記念すべきモデルだからです。その後、同年に製作したモデルはすべてlot#1となっています。翌年1999年に製作したものはlot#2となり、その後毎年、年が変わるたびにlotの番号が増えていきます。今年2007年は、lot#10 がパッチに印字されています。したがって来年2008年が10周年となります。
★質問 ②
*********
1998年に大阪発デニムブランドとしてサムライジーンズは誕生
当時日本はレプリカブームで、エビィスやダルチ、ドゥニーム
どの全盛期でした。
しかし代表の野上にとってはどのデニムにも納得いかないものがあ
作り手の側からだけではなく穿き手の気持ちをもっと取り入れた新
熱い思いからスタートし、真剣に自分たちが納得できる良いものだ
初めて製作したのは、S0510XX lot#0 1998年初代モデル。これは当初100本のみの製作です。
革パッチにlot#0を付したのは、最初の記念すべきモデルだか
★質問 ②
差し支えなければでかまわないのですが、年間何本ぐらい売れているか聞いちゃっていいですか!?笑
★返事
*****
それほど本数は多くありませんが、申し訳ありませんが、お答えできません。
★質問 ③ 最近日本のレプリカデニムはアメリカなどでも注目され始めていると思うのですが、 今後世界を舞台に展開する予定はあるのでしょうか?例えばスウェーデンとか (笑)。でも人によっては小さくやっていきたいという気持ちがはやりあると 思うんですよ。もしあるのならいつぐらいになるのでしょうか?
*****
それほど本数は多くありませんが、申し訳ありませんが
★質問 ③ 最近日本のレプリカデニムはアメリカなどでも注目され始めている
★返事
***********
最近、アメリカやスウェーデン他、各国で非常に注目していただいていることは
スタッフ全員、非常にうれしく思っています。しかし、現在はそれほど大きな展開にしたいとは
思っていません。急いで大きく展開すると、どうしても商業主義的にならざるを得ず、サムライジーンズとしては最も大切な信念である「穿き手の想い」をデニムに反映することができなくるからです。
今は、とにかく「作り手」と「穿き手」が近い関係を保ちながら、地道に納得したものだけを作り続けていくことができればと思っています。当社がもっと会社としての体力をつけ、いろいろな面において準備が整った体制になってから、あらためて世界展開については考えたいと思っています。
★ 質問 ④
***********
最近、アメリカやスウェーデン他、各国で非常に注目していただい
スタッフ全員、非常にうれしく思っています。しかし
思っていません。急いで大きく展開すると、どうしても商業主義的
今は、とにかく「作り手」と「穿き手」が近い関係を保ちながら
★ 質問 ④
デニムの世界に入られたきっかけってどんなものだったのでしょうか? 僕の経験の中ではサムライジーンズのような古きよき時代のデニムに対してこ だわりと情熱もって接する人で、女性ってなかなかいない気がするのですが。。
★返事
********
もともとレプリカジーンズに興味があったのですが、サムライジーンズのものづくりに対する真剣さに心を打たれ魅了されてしまいました。
★ 質問 ⑤
********
もともとレプリカジーンズに興味があったのですが
★ 質問 ⑤
そういえば先日の年賀状どうもありがとうございました! あそこにあった写真について少し詳しくお伺いしていいですか?
★返事
日本の伝統的な行事「だんじり」は有名なのでご存知だと思います。しかしその行事を裏で支えている「だんじり」の繊細でありかつ大胆な「彫り物」はあまり世間でも知られていません。しかしここにこそ日本人が誇りにするべき素晴らしい伝統の技が存在するのです。一つのだんじりが仕上がるまでには、企画、下絵から初めてかなりの年月を要する壮大な芸術です。職人の目と手の感覚だけで彫り上げていくその様は、たとえようも無いくらい感動的なものです。その巧のわざを見た瞬間、「これだ!」と思いました。ジーンズの製作においても、我々にしかできない技をもって誇りをもって製作するべきであり決して妥協は許されない、なにか侍としての共通するものを感じたのです。それで今回、広告として使わせていただくことにしました。
★ 質問 ⑥
★返事
日本の伝統的な行事「だんじり」は有名なのでご存知だと思います
★ 質問 ⑥
サムライジーンズって数ある日本のデニムのブランドの中(特にレプリカ)でも ダントツの人気があると思うのですが、その理由ってなんなんでしょう?他の ブランドと比べて「これはうちだけだ!」とか、「ここは譲れない!」って部 分とかありますか?
★返事
むずかしい質問ですね(笑)
まず第一は「生地」でしょうね。どこにでもあるようなものでは納得できず、なんどもなんども作り直し、オンスが高いだけでなく、色落ちにもとことんこだわったものを求めて研究に研究を重ねました。もちろん風合いも非常に大切なものであり、それらすべてが納得できるまでは販売に至らない、というこだわりが、きっとお客様にも伝わっているのではないかと思います。そして、モデルによってコンセプトが違うように、付属においてもそのコンセプトに合うように一つ一つ製作しこだわりました。また革パッチには小さな遊び心を入れ、モデルごとにデザインを変えメッセージ性を持たせています。そういった細かい点におけるこだわりについても、お客様の方で楽しんでいただけているのではないかと思っています。
★質問 ⑦ サムライジーンズを通して、お客様に伝えたいメッセージはどういったものなのでしょうか?
むずかしい質問ですね(笑)
まず第一は「生地」でしょうね。どこにでもあるようなものでは納
★質問 ⑦ サムライジーンズを通して、お客様に伝えたいメッセージはどうい
★返事
そうですね。ものづくりすべてにおいて、挑戦し続ける事、妥協しない事、そして、真を見極める事というような「侍の精神」ですかね。
★ 質問 ⑧
そうですね。ものづくりすべてにおいて、挑戦し続ける事
★ 質問 ⑧
サムライと言うと武士道をイメージされる方が多いと思うのですが、 デザインの中でその精神がつぎ込まれているところってありますか?
★返事
生地、縫製、付属、サムライジーンズのすべてですね。
★質問 ⑨
生地、縫製、付属、サムライジーンズのすべてですね。
★質問 ⑨
去年はどれぐらいの人数の海外の方と取引されたのでしょうか? 最近はアメリカ以外にもヨーロッパでもかなり注目されているようですね!
★返事
ありがたいことに、アメリカだけではなく世界各地から問い合わせをいただいています。どれくらいになるでしょうかね(笑)
★質問⑩
ありがたいことに、アメリカだけではなく世界各地から問い合わせ
★質問⑩
サムライジーンズと言えばやはりあの極上のスラブ感だと思うのですが、 今後もっとテンションの高めの生地を使う計画ってありますか?
★返事
弱テンション織り、ザラ感、だけを追求しているわけではなく、あらゆる可能性を今後も
追求していきます。今後もサムライならではの他にはない生地を企画していますのでどうぞ楽しみにしていてください。
★質問⑪
弱テンション織り、ザラ感、だけを追求しているわけではなく
追求していきます。今後もサムライならではの他にはない生地を企
★質問⑪
S5000BKのような色落ちをするブラックデニムを使って今後新しいモデルが作られる話はあるんでしょうか?
★返事
はい、予定しています!!
★質問⑫
はい、予定しています!!
★質問⑫
さっきから質問攻めですみませんが、2007年ではどんなモデルが出てくるのか教えていただけますでしょうか?今度はラングラーを復元するとかどうで しょう。10 周年記念の特別版も今年は期待できるのでしょうか?
★返事
今年も新しいモデルを発表します!ラングラーモデルも計画に入っていますよ。どうぞ楽しみにしていてください。
★質問⑬
今年も新しいモデルを発表します!ラングラーモデルも計画に入っ
★質問⑬
S5000VX とS3000VXは今後も生産されるのでしょうか?最近中々ショップとかでも見かけなくなってきたのですが…
★返事
両者とも人気モデルですから今後も生産していきます!
★質問⑭
両者とも人気モデルですから今後も生産していきます!
★質問⑭
時々行われる特注ウォレットの抽選の対象の中では一番人気があったと思われるS7000VXの生産再開はないのでしょうか?
僕の持っているS0505XXとS0500XX では着用してから一ヶ月ぐらいでフロントポケット周辺のステッチが切れてしまったのですが、これはわざと耐久力の低い糸を使っているのでしょうか?
★返事
わざと耐久性の低い糸、ということはありませんが、やはりレプリカジーンズの風合いを出すためにも、綿糸を使っていますので、切れやすいのかもしれません。
★質問⑯
わざと耐久性の低い糸、ということはありませんが
★質問⑯
つい最近サムライジーンズはリーバイスから起訴されたと聞いたのですが、当時はどんな思いしたか?そしてこれが会社にどんな影響を与えたのでしょうか?差し支えない範囲でかまいませんので、よろしくお願いします。
★返事影響がなかったといえば嘘になりますが、これを機会に当社として
以上★★★
S0500XX, first repair
I'm approaching the three month mark and I just made the first repair on my jeans. The metal snap on my big wallet had worn through the denim, and it wasn't a surprise that it would happen, I'd rather say it's inevitable with this kind of wallet. A good reason to buy the long version instead.
I had cut off a long piece of each leg when I had the jeans hemmed, so I took some of it to use for this repair. I intend to do all repairs with this denim.
I hot soaked the scrap denim before using it, because the S0500XX shrank both the second and third time I soaked them, remember? I wouldn't want the patch to shrink more than the rest of the jeans when I do the first wash.
I also made sure to match the weave of the patch to the pocket.
As I don't have access to a sewing machine at the moment, I had to sew it by hand. It worked out quite well I think and it's hard to see that the jeans have been repaired. I also tried to match the direction of the stitches to the weave.
The injury..
Look at how much the color has changed!
The result.
I had cut off a long piece of each leg when I had the jeans hemmed, so I took some of it to use for this repair. I intend to do all repairs with this denim.
I hot soaked the scrap denim before using it, because the S0500XX shrank both the second and third time I soaked them, remember? I wouldn't want the patch to shrink more than the rest of the jeans when I do the first wash.
I also made sure to match the weave of the patch to the pocket.
As I don't have access to a sewing machine at the moment, I had to sew it by hand. It worked out quite well I think and it's hard to see that the jeans have been repaired. I also tried to match the direction of the stitches to the weave.
The injury..
Look at how much the color has changed!
The result.
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