Wednesday, May 31, 2006

Limited time offer

If you've found a pair of Japanese jeans or something else from Japan that you like there are a couple of ways to make them your's. One way is to order through the user xcoldricex on Styleforum/Superfuture. He is currently in Japan and offers to buy the item for you and ship them to you(few stores ship outside of Japan) for a small fee.
He is slightly cheaper than other similar services, and he is definitely faster, speaks better English(he's American) and can get you goods that isn't available online.
He can also get you Red Moon-style wallets for about half the price of Red moon's and Loopwheeler sweatshirts and much, much more.

Check out this thread at Styleforum and the pics he has posted!
Read his feedback here and here.

Update: I may have been wrong about this being cheaper than other services. Ask bid-service and Celga for their prices before ordering.

Monday, May 29, 2006

Buyer's guide: Slim & Japanese

Japanese reproductions of Levi's, Lee's or Wrangler's jeans are generally a fuller cut than the jeans from modern brands like Acne et al that guys like me are used to. For some, this is a problem, but luckily there are a few pairs that fit the bill if you're looking for slim cuts. Here is my list of slim or skinny Japanese jeans!

Skull Jeans

Skull Jeans are known for their more slim and modern cuts. If you're looking for jeans as skinny as Acne's Max or Dior's jeans, this is your stop. Their skinniest pair is the 5010. It is available in two types of denim, one is unsanforized shrink-to-fit denim that come in a one wash-state and the other one is a sanforized denim that can be bought raw and has a black leather patch.
Because of the different denim they are sized slightly differently, so look at the measurements to make sure you get the right size. You can also check out 5507 and 5109XXS(hair-on-hide patch), they are slim but not skinny cuts.
They also make fuller cuts and black jeans.

Online store
Gallery of used Skull's
Skull Jeans worn by skinny guy

Skull Jeans worn by a guy with big legs

The Flat Head

Next out is The Flat Head with its weird arcuate, a snake biting another snake or what? Anyway, the denim is awesome, similar to Eternal's, and the 3001 cut is slim.
You should be able to remove the backpocket stitching without leaving any trace behind if you don't like the arcuate. Also available in black as the 4001BK.
TFH 3001 fit
TFH denim jacket with the same denim
The 3005's also have the same denim as the 3001's

TFH 4001BK
TFH Website


Fullcount only use Zimbabwean single-cropped(harvested once a year) cotton, which is probably the highest quality cotton you can use in jeans. Zimbabwean cotton is know for its long
fibres and because it is single-cropped, it's allowed to grow even longer than cotton that is harvested more than once a year. This allows Fullcount to make denim of "only" 13.76oz weight that is as durable as other brands' 15 or more oz jeans.
Their 1108 cut is slim with a high waist, so you will probably want to size down if you're used to lower waists.
The same cut is also available in black(1310) and indigo overdyed with black(1474).

How they fit
1474HW distressed
Fullcount Online store
About Fullcount


Samurai's slimmest pair is the S0505XX, which I own. You need only scroll down to find pictures of details and fit. You can order directly from Samurai and they have measurements for all sizes. The S0505XX's are almost sold out though, so you better hurry if you want a pair.
They also have other cuts that aren't quite as slim but can still be described as slim, the S5000VX for example.
S0505XX @ d-stock

S0505XX @ 2nd
S0505XX @ Izumi

S0505XX @ g-a-r-d-e-n

S5000VX worn

Studio D'Artisan

The SD-103 is a reasonably slim cut and again, scroll down for pictures. It is not quite as slim as the other cuts listed above though. They do have a huge advantage over the other brands; pigs.
SD Jeans Chart



The Eternal 811's are about the same fit as the SD-103's, except for the rise which is about 1" higher, maybe? The denim is awesome, 'nough said.

There is also the Eternal 846 and 851. They are the same cut, slightly slimmer than the 811's and 14oz instead of 14.5 like the 811's. The 846's are indigo dyed and the 851's are black.
They are Eternal's budget jeans, but the only budget thing about them is the single-selvedge. Unfortunately, the 846's are sold out most places.

Eternal 811
Eternal 811
Eternal 846
Eternal 846
Eternal 851
Eternal 811 used


Other slim jeans to check out are the FOB Factory 151 (1, 2), Denime 66 Low-rise, Denime 805XX, plain 805, Dubbleworks 660 (1, 2). There are also a few other slim jeans from other brands, so if you don't like the ones I've listed you can have a look around for yourself.

If the jeans you're looking for are sold out at the stores I linked to, use rakuten, or Google to search for them.

**Update: Added a couple more links. Check out the Dry Bones 570 too, thansk to keyko @superfuture for this one.

Update 2: FOB Factory 161


I just got the book Denim: From cowboys to catwalk by Graham Marsh and Paul Trynka.

I haven't read it yet, but I have to say it seems to be a great little book, in regards to both pictures and all the information it contains. It tells about how the fabric was created, how it has evolved during time, how its status has changed through the years, about why the jeans from different years look and fit different and which celebrities have worn it, and much more.
It's a very informative book and you are not required to have any knowledge about denim to understand it. A great starter book!

The pictures are also excellent and great inspiration for denim nerds like me :)

I payed $19.15 including shipping for this book and at that price it is truly a bargain!
You can buy it here!

Friday, May 26, 2006

Fullcount 1108 & SD-103 fit

The user digital_denim posted a couple of pictures comparing the fit between the Fullcount 1108(66 model, high rise, slim, straight legs) and the Studio D'Artisan SD-103's on superfuture.

Apparently the fit is quite similar, as is the leg opening, but keep in mind that the 1108's pictured have not been shrunk yet, so they should end up a bit slimmer than the 103's.

Because of the higher rise on the 1108's, you should go down 1 or 2 sizes, unless you have beer belly. digital_denim went down 2 sizes, which was a good call in my opinion!

Go here for more pictures and a discussion!

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

Samurai S0505XX

The denim of these jeans is quite slubby and irregular, and contains little starch. As a result the denim is not as stiff as my Studio D'Artisans, but it is still quite rough, and it still drapes more like raw, stiff denim and not as washed, crappy and thin denim. I have only worn them for a few hours so far, but it seems that they will crease pretty well.


Raw ---------- After warm soak
Waist 79 ------- 75,2
Thigh 29,5 ----- 28,4
Inseam 96-97 -- 92
Rise 28 --------- 27
Hem 20,3 ------ 19,5

measured like this, except I measure the rise all the way up to the waistband:

The waist does stretch out quite easily, I expect it to stretch roughly 2".
You can order these directly from Samurai, without using bid-service, so the price is a bit lower than what you'll usually pay for a pair of Japanese jeans, I payed about 220USD.

How they fit

Studio D'Artisan SD-103, size 30

Samurai S0505XX, size 30

APC New Standards, size 27